Kabuki at the National Theater

A few weeks ago, I went to Tokyo to attend a "Kabuki for Foreigners" program. I read that this was a once a year program held by the National Theater. I have attended two other Kabuki performances, one by myself and another with two Japanese friends. Both of those performances were in Japanese, as was the one in Tokyo. 

My seat was in row nine, so I was very close to the stage.  The first part of the program was a Kabuki actor who was interviewed by a young Japanese woman who translated what he said into English for the audience. 

Kabuki started in the Edo period and both male and female parts were originally performed by an all female cast.  In 1629, women were banned from this type of performance, as the performances were deemed too suggestive, and since then has been played by an all male cast, playing both male and female roles. 

I knew a little about the Kabuki stage after visiting Kanamaru-za, the oldest surviving Kabuki theater, but I learned a lot more at this program. There is a walkway from the back of the theater to the stage called a hanamichi. It can be part of the stage, such as a path or river, and can be for dramatic entrances and exits. The stage also has tricks where the actors can be raised or lowered to the basement quickly so they appear or disapear. The costumes, wigs, and make up are all fantastic.  I learned that red lines in the white make up were for the good guys, blue or black lines for the bad guys, purple lines meant nobility, and green lines for the supernatural.  

In 2005, UNESCO recognized Kabuki as an intangible heritage possessing outstanding universal value. 

The program I saw in Tokyo was called 「紅葉狩」or Catching Colored Leaves. Here is the description: " Some noble Heike 平家 men went for catching colored leaves and they met a group of beautiful women. The women invited the men to a banquet. When the men got drunk and sleepy, the women turned into Oni, 鬼女 and attacked them."

I didn't understand what the actors were saying, but I did understand the story of what was happening. I am very thankful I was able to attend this performance and experience Japanese culture. 

Photos were not allowed inside the beautiful modern theater, but I did take a few photos outside the theater.

Kai Ueno Castle and the Kabuki Museum

On December 19th, I took the train to Yamanashi Prefecture to visit Kai Ueno Castle and the Kabuki Museum.  

I had many views of Mt. Fuji from the train.

The train was a "wan man" train - only the driver of the train.  The stations along the way, including where I got off had no station building or staff. This is country-side Japan.

The castle was not much at all. It was four floors, with the top floor being the look out, the first and third floors nothing, and the second floor a little museum with some old pottery. I was the only person visiting the castle. The admission for both the castle and the Kabuki Museum next to the castle was 500 yen.

Some views from the top.

The Kabuki Museum was much more interesting than the castle.  I was also the only person visiting the museum that day. There was a Japanese 3-D movie (with the glasses) that was like an advertisement for the local area. It was in Japanese, but I could understand it was talking about the different seasons and festivals of the year. 

This area was set up like a stage for a Kabuki performance.

In another room, there were costumes and no photos allowed but the woman working at the museum let me take a couple of pictures of this quilt.

She was very nice and very knowledgable about everything Kabuki.  I told her about seeing some Kabuki performances and visiting the Kabuki Museum in Shikoku. The problem with saying a few little things in Japanese to someone is that they assume I really understand what they are saying.  She talked a mile a minute, but I could not understand most of what she said. It was okay though. 

After leaving the Kabuki Museum, I walked back to the train station and headed for home.

I had more views of Mt. Fuji on my trip back home.

Kabuki Saturday

Last Saturday I took the train to Fuji City to see this Kabuki performance. The name of this play is Matuura No Taiko, and it starred a very famous Kabuki actor, Ichikawa Somegoro. The ticket taker correctly guessed that I would not be able to understand what the actors were saying and produced a six page English explanation, which he gave to me with my Japanese program!  

Photos were not allowed in the theater, so I can't show the beautiful scenery or the costumes and make up of the actors.  It was past my bed time by the time I got back home, but I was so happy that I was able to see this traditional Japanese performance!

Gift from a Student

I have an interesting job teaching private English lessons to adults.  At the beginning of class I ask questions about their families, their hobbies, their work, their plans for the weekend or for a report on what they have done the previous weekend to let them practice their conversation skills.  One of my students told me he and his wife were going to a lecture program on Kabuki. In the course of our conversation I told him I was interested in Kabuki but didn't know a lot about it.  He confessed that even though he is Japanese, he doesn't know a lot either.  I really enjoy getting to know my students through these conversations.  

I was very surprised and really touched when this student brought me these gifts after attending the Kabuki program!

Kanamaru-za, The Kabuki Museum

After seeing the Kabuki performance recently, I was very interested in seeing this museum, which is an old Kabuki theater. It was like stepping back in time.  

The entrance in very low and I had to be careful not to bump my head.  

Inside is the shoe room, like a cloak room, but you leave your shoes instead of your coat. 

The seating area is divided tatami.  I guess you bring your own cushions.  Can't you just imagine the place full of people waiting for the show to begin? 

The stage has areas that turn or raise and lower and they are all powered by men below the stage!

Behind the stage were areas for the actors to get dressed or have make-up and hair done.  

There was also seating in a balcony area. 

What a treat it was to see this theater!

The Kabuki Adventure

Kabuki is a classic Japanese drama/dance theater known for its elaborate make up, costumes, and sets. This Japanese entertainment began in 1603. I recently found out there would be a Kabuki performance at a shrine near Takamatsu and I really wanted to go! I used google maps to find the shrine, but couldn't find an easy way to get there.  The closest I could get by public transportation still involved a two and a half hour walk from that point.  My Japanese friend was able to research online and found that there was a shuttle from an area that I could get to by bus! I took a train to Takamatsu, then a bus, then the shuttle.  The road up to the shrine was a narrow, curvy, uphill little path really.  

When I arrived at the shrine, I saw it was like a festival with vendors selling prepared foods, produce, all kinds of thing. It was an interesting day to say the least! 

 I didn't really understand what was going on, but a woman behind me was trying to explain things to me in a mixture of English and Japanese.When I saw people throwing things that could have been rocks or candy or who knows what at the actors and stage, she showed me it was little wrapped coins - a one yen and a five yen in each package. I think they are called ohineri. 

My photos aren't the greatest because I wasn't close and had to use the zoom, but you'll get the idea.  

I really enjoyed the experience, even if I didn't understand what was going on!